The owner of Tito’s Bar had had a medical problem and was unable to continue with the business. One of her sons was left in charge, but only worked on Satur- days, when the train arrives from the nearest cities full of people eager to take pictures and have a drink in an authentic farm bar. The rest of the week Gumercindo Arquímedes Rivero, a former tractor driver, is in charge of the place. As we were chatting, he looked at his watch, stood up, poured a glass of cane rum, left it on the far right of the counter, and came back to the table, leav- ing the tiny glass by itself. I wondered what that was all about. Minutes later, the door opened and one of the regulars walked in, sat in a chair where the glass had been left, and started sipping.
Vela, Buenos Aires Province